Pequeño Alpamayo Expedition - Andean Heights

Pequeño Alpamayo Expedition

5,430 m / 17,815 ft

Cordillera Real, Bolivia | 4-Day Expedition

Overview

Pequeño Alpamayo (5,430 m / 17,815 ft) is a magnificent peak in the Cordillera Real offering climbers an exceptional mountaineering experience with stunning glacier terrain and breathtaking panoramic views of the Andean landscape. This ideal objective combines technical ice climbing with moderate difficulty, making it perfect for climbers seeking to develop their glacier and ice skills while summiting a prestigious peak.

Located in the stunning Cordillera Real, the expedition features diverse terrain including beautiful valleys, high altitude trekking, and glaciated slopes. Day 2 includes a perfect acclimatization climb of Pico Austria (5,320m), a rocky peak with no technical difficulty. Day 3 presents the main challenge with early morning glacier climbing featuring crevasse navigation, technical ice work with crampons and ice axe, and stunning views of nearby peaks including Huayna Potosí (6,080m) and Condoriri (5,648m). This expedition is ideal for mountaineers looking to enhance their technical skills in a spectacular alpine setting.

Expedition Highlights

Climb a prestigious peak in the Cordillera Real
Complete summit in 4 days with optimal acclimatization
Ascend Pico Austria (5,320m) for acclimatization and skill development
Navigate technical glacier terrain with crampons and ice axe
Enjoy stunning views of Huayna Potosí and Condoriri
Trek through the beautiful Chiar Khota lagoon valley

Trip Details

Duration

4 Days / 3 Nights

Difficulty

Challenging - Moderate technical mountaineering

Max Altitude

5,430 m / 17,815 ft

Best Season

May to September (dry season)

Starting Point

La Paz, Bolivia (3,600m)

Detailed Itinerary

Day 1

La Paz (3,600 m) - Rinconada - Chiar Khota Lagoon (4,670 m)

We depart early from La Paz and drive to the town of Tuni, approximately 3 hours away. From here, we begin our trekking journey toward our first camp. We head through the beautiful valley toward the stunning Chiar Khota lagoon, where we will establish our base camp at 4,670 meters. As we approach the campsite, we are surrounded by magnificent mountain vistas and pristine alpine scenery. We rest and acclimatize for the days ahead. 🏕 Camp at Chiar Khota Lagoon (4,670 m)

Day 2

Pico Austria (5,320 m) - Acclimatization

Known as Austria Peak or Cerro Negro, Pico Austria is an easily accessible peak offering perfect acclimatization and skill development. The terrain is rocky with no technical difficulty required. Depending on the season, snow may be encountered during the hike. Climbing equipment is not necessary for this ascent. We enjoy wonderful panoramic views of the Cordillera Real and surrounding peaks. We return to base camp in the afternoon, well-acclimatized and prepared for the main summit push. 🏔 Full day excursion with return to Chiar Khota Camp

Day 3

Pequeño Alpamayo Summit (5,430 m) - Chiar Khota Lagoon (4,670 m)

Early morning breakfast around 2:00 AM. After approximately one hour's walk, we reach the glacier and begin technical climbing operations. We put on crampons, harnesses, and other climbing equipment. We first climb to the summit of Tarija (5,200m), a lower nearby peak, then descend about 60 meters to continue toward the summit of Pequeño Alpamayo. We navigate crevasses with proper rope techniques, ascending the technical glacier slope. From the summit, we enjoy spectacular 360-degree views including Huayna Potosí (6,080m) and Condoriri (5,648m). We descend via the same route back to base camp. 🧗 Total summit day: 8-10 hours approximately

Day 4

Chiar Khota Lake - La Paz

After breakfast, we retrace our steps along the same route back to the Tuni mountain hut. Our vehicle awaits us there for the drive back to La Paz. We arrive at our hotel in the afternoon, completing our Pequeño Alpamayo expedition with wonderful memories of this spectacular Cordillera Real experience. 🚗 Return drive to La Paz (approximately 3 hours)