ILINIZA SUR EXPEDITION
5,248 meters - Ecuador's Most Technical Glacier Challenge
Certified IFMGA/UIAGM Mountain Guide
About Iliniza Sur
Iliniza Sur (5,248 m) is a steep, glaciated peak in Ecuador's Avenue of the Volcanoes, known for its imposing ice routes and dramatic ridgelines. It's considered one of the most technically demanding climbs in the country and is ideal for experienced mountaineers looking for a short, high-intensity glacier objective.
Sharp, steep, and stunning — Iliniza Sur doesn't just test your skills, it elevates them...
What's Included
- Certified IFMGA/UIAGM mountain guide
- All meals during the expedition
- Private transportation
- Group climbing gear (ropes, ice screws, snow stakes, etc.)
PREPARATION
Fitness
Very high. Requires physical endurance, excellent acclimatization, and capacity for high-intensity movement at altitude.
Technical
High. Involves glacier travel, front-pointing on 50–60° slopes, and roped climbing. Prior mountaineering experience is essential.
Altitude
5,248 m (Summit of Iliniza Sur)
Itinerary
Day 1 – Approach to Refugio Nuevos Horizontes (4,750 m)
Morning pickup from Quito or Latacunga and drive to La Virgen trailhead (3,950 m). From there, we hike across open páramo terrain toward the Nuevos Horizontes Refuge, located in the saddle between Iliniza Norte and Sur. After arrival, we organize gear, review glacier safety protocols, and rest early in preparation for the summit.
⏱️ 3–4 hours hikeDay 2 – Alpine Start and Summit of Iliniza Sur (5,248 m)
We begin the ascent around 2:00 AM under headlamps. The route climbs steep glacier terrain with consistent 50–60° angles, crevasse zones, and mixed snow/ice conditions depending on season. Movement is done roped, with use of crampons and ice axes essential. After 4–6 hours of climbing, we reach the summit, where we'll enjoy panoramic views of Cotopaxi, Chimborazo, and the Ecuadorian Andes. The descent retraces our steps to the refuge, followed by the hike down to the trailhead and private transfer back.
⏱️ 6 - 7 hours (climb + descent)Gallery - Iliniza Sur Expedition
Explore stunning images from our Iliniza Sur expeditions, showcasing the breathtaking glaciers, dramatic ridgelines, and incredible panoramic views of Ecuador's highest peaks.
Ready for Your Iliniza Sur Challenge?
Join us for an intense and rewarding expedition to one of Ecuador's most technical peaks. This climb will test your mountaineering skills and reward you with stunning alpine views and a true sense of accomplishment.
Contact UsGet in touch for more information
Member of International Federation of Mountain Guide Associations (IFMGA)
Member of AGMP (Peruvian Mountain Guide Association)