Overview
Chopicalqui (6,354m / 20,846 ft) is the fourth highest peak in the Cordillera Blanca and one of the most impressive mountains in Peru. Part of the Huascarán massif, this stunning peak offers a challenging yet rewarding climb with spectacular views of the surrounding giants including Huascarán, Huandoy, and Artesonraju.
The climb follows the classic Southwest Ridge route, featuring glacier travel, steep ice slopes, and technical sections that will test your mountaineering skills. With proper acclimatization and preparation, Chopicalqui provides an unforgettable high-altitude experience in the heart of the Peruvian Andes.
Expedition Highlights
- Summit one of Peru's highest peaks at 6,354m
- Experience world-class high-altitude mountaineering
- Trek through the stunning Llanganuco Valley
- Witness incredible views of Huascarán and surrounding peaks
- Navigate challenging glacier terrain and steep ice walls
- Camp at spectacular high-altitude locations
Detailed Itinerary
Day 1
Huaraz - Llanganuco Valley - Moraine Camp (4,820m)
Early morning departure from Huaraz. Drive through the scenic Callejón de Huaylas valley to Yungay, then ascend into the spectacular Llanganuco Valley. We'll pass the beautiful emerald lakes of Chinancocha and Orconcocha before reaching our trailhead. Hike through alpine vegetation and rocky moraine to establish our first camp at Moraine Camp (4,820m). Approximately 3-4 hours driving and 4-5 hours hiking.
Day 2
Moraine Camp - High Camp (5,380m)
After breakfast, we begin our approach to High Camp. Cross several rocky moraines before reaching the glacier. Put on crampons and begin ascending the lower glacier slopes, navigating crevasses and ice features. Establish High Camp at 5,380m with spectacular views of the summit above. Review technical skills, check equipment, and prepare for the summit push. Approximately 4-5 hours hiking and climbing.
Day 3
Summit Day - Chopicalqui (6,354m) - Moraine Camp
Alpine start at 1:00 AM. Ascend steep glacier slopes in the darkness, navigating crevasses and seracs. As dawn breaks, continue up the steepening ridge to the technical crux - two consecutive ice walls (50-65 degrees) that require solid ice climbing technique. Push through the final slopes to reach the spectacular summit of Chopicalqui with 360-degree views of the Cordillera Blanca. Descend carefully to High Camp, pack up, and continue down to Moraine Camp. Summit day: 10-12 hours.
Day 4
Moraine Camp - Huaraz
After a well-deserved rest and celebratory breakfast, pack up camp and descend the moraine back to the trailhead. Our vehicle will be waiting to transport us back to Huaraz. Arrive in Huaraz by afternoon with time to celebrate your achievement. Approximately 3-4 hours hiking and 3 hours driving.